3.8 V6 SFR ECU Reflash F.A.Q- What does it exactly do?1. Throttle response
Since Genesis Coupe has E-throttle body that is controlled by sending signals
with ECU, there are some delay/hesitations with throttle body. It also has to
do with notorious rev hang issues we've seen and experienced especially with
automatic
tranny. With SFR reflash, we can control the timing and
responsiveness of throttle body remapping the logic of the throttle body.
Reaction time will be a lot quicker and all the lag that used to be with stock
tune will be gone. We don't want it to be too touchy especially for the
customers located in East coast where they get snow in winter, so we've put
it in the safe range. Going into full throttle (80% opening) is going to be
much faster resulting to reach desired RPM faster than stock tune. It also
saves gas mileage since
car will be more responsive with throttle (with less
amount of gas on the foot moves the car... Injection = amount of foot to the
gas)
2. Unleashing torque management system
There is a torque management system built into Delphi 3.8 V6 ECU that is
limiting the power to the ground (Even with
traction control off). It also has
to do with traction control/tire pressure sensor that ECU will automatically
limit off the power if it detects any loose tractions. We program the torque
management system to turn off the
traction controll fuly when it's OFF.
Traction control will work just like stock when it's ON.
3. Advanced timing
We give out timings depends on what octane rate you are running the car.
The higher octane you are running with the car, the more aggressive timing
we will be given to each flash.
MAF based 3.8 sensors/o2 sensors/ECU are very sensitive that slight change
in Octane/MAF flow rate will affect very easily. We recommend to stay with
flashed octane as always (You can go up but you can't go down on the
octane rate) in order to avoid on the misfiring issues.
Also note to use legit brand named Gas stations to get octane rate as
advertised.
Giving more timing will make more power throught the RPM, and the customer
definately feel the aggressiveness of power and torque.
We recommend one step colder spark plugs for 93+ (octane) tunes (especially the custom tunes)
4. Trimming A/F ratio
3.8 ECU is targetted A/F ratio map that ECU try to adjust to the A/F ratio we
set at. It's little harder to adjust with some aftermarket intakes that
bypasses MAF sesnor some air (ex. INJEN) since ECU is not monitoring the
right amount of air coming in. However, after all these years of experience
we know exact what to give for such modifications/combinations with
exhausts and other aftermarket bolt-ons.
Giving out more aggressive A/F ratio will generate more power in desired RPM
range (or all range) but there is a risk of misfiring or shorten the life of motor.
Our canned tune is set at more than safe range.
5. Rev limiter/Top Speed governor
We can only change the rev limiter on Manual
tranny cars though
auto tranny can go up to desired rpm in 5th and 6th gear.
The usual and proven RPM bump is @ 7200rpm. Neutral RPM rev limiter is still
@5000rpm like stock. We can always change this but in case of dealers
checking things out with possible alternations, we didn't want to put
anything too obvious. Top speed governor will be taken out and there will be
no limit to the top speed.
- Dyno vs Performance/Drivability gains?Dyno gain on canned tune on 3.8 V6 is about 5-20 rhwp (dyno peak powers)
range ONLY.
If you break it down some areas (RPM), it would be around 10-40rhwp gains
and 20-60lbs of torque.
A lot of people are so crazy about making some useless peak powers on the
dyno but as we stated above it's all about the drivability gains for 3.8 V6
ECUs.
Our canned tune for each octane rate is set at more than safe range of A/F
ratio/advanced timing that can be performed right without getting into
problems. Giving more aggressive timing or leaning out A/F ratio might yield
few more hp but it will not make a big difference and have more chance of
getting into problems (ex. Limp mode/misfiring/etc)
This is also one of the reasons why we've been suggesting our canned tunes
that will increase in overall performance and drivability while it's problem-free.
With canned tune, it's already proven by bunch of members to shave at
least .5- a second on the quater mile which is hard to believe while gaining
only such numbers on the dyno. This proves enough evidence that it's not all
about making useless numbers on dyno but tune must be targetted more
towards to drivability on 3.8 V6 ECU.
- Automatic vs Manual?Performance gains on both
tranny would be about the same. Due to increase
in response of throttle, people with manual
tranny will have to relearn where
to engauge the clutch( it should not take long). Once you get the feel of it,
throttle is right there. Especially people doing some high skilled
drifiting/Touge/time attack should have advantages doing heel n toe/power
shifting/etc. Automatics have less chance to mess up on the shifting so
advantages on the flash is more towards to the transition on the shifting.
Due to throttle response changing gear would be faster/smoother. Going
on/off on the throttle will be much faster and responsive. (ex. You had to
downshift in order to pass somebody on the highway,
now it's just instant foot the pedal and power is right there)
We've seen avg of .7 seconds with manual
tranny and .5 seconds with auto
tranny on quater mile times.
- What parts to buy/what mods to do?We have brands and parts to recommend in order to maximize the outcome of
the reflash. We've done quite many custom tunes for certain brands and
combination. Some wrong modifications such as taking out all catalytic
converters will loose power (Your car isn't 80's Honda civic). o2 sensors not
only monitors the amount of o2 but the temperature of the cat and etc that
if it is not reading right bascially A/F ratio map on ECU that is connected to o2
sensor would also get messed up resulting high risk of running extremely lean
or rich. If it runs lean, ECU will pull timings resulting loss of power as well as
running rich. So please contact us for any modifications prior or after the ECU
flash. We'd be more than welcome to help out selecting parts as well as
locating and giving the best pricings as possible. We'd refuse to tune certain
cars that have the parts already on the car we aren't really sure about.
Dyno results Stage 1 vs Stage 1.5
Auto to Manual transmission swap
- KOREAN POPCORN (Crackle and pop )
Adds aggressive crackle and pop during deceleration letting off the gas pedal around 2-4k RPM at light throttle.
Has no gains as far as the performance goes. Sound will be depended on your exhaust set up.
- Retune?
If you are only putting in some bolt on parts such as intake/exhaust/etc, you don't really need the retune. Flahsed ECU will act just like stock ECU that will relearn itself overtime. It only takes few seconds to reset the ECU by pulling the ECU fuse in the fuse box located near the battery. You will not loose the flash by disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse out. ECU flash is permanent. ECU will go back to when we first flashed the ECU after the reset. If you are coming with other tuner's tune, we will have to charge extra to returning ECU back to stock first to get the basedata made. So far we are the only vendor that reuses the ORIGINAL stock data converted to tuned data.
Custom Tune
Though you can still get great gains from canned tune, it's still a tune that is meant to be used for any cars with different mods/environment. In order to maximize and squeeze most out of current set up, custom tune is recommended. It can be only done on the dyno in-person that you'd need to visit SFR USA or come to one of our tour locations (if there is custom tunes are offered).
* Please note we have rights to refuse to tune the vehicles that are equipped with anything that we think it's dangerous or will give problems on the dyno.
Please contact and provide us pictures of the set up and list of parts on the car prior to the tune session so we can give some suggestions.
- Warranty
* OFF ROAD USE ONLY! * ALL SALES ARE FINAL
We don't guarantee anything about Hyundai's warranty with ECU flash.
Get this service/product at your own risk just like any other aftermarket parts you put on.
However, it's not obivously seen or detected compared to any visible mods
such as intake/exhaust/etc.
We always use original stock data pulled then modified to tuned data (if mailed in), so all the calibration data and other ECU functions remains exactly the same as stock
Or you can just switch your untouched stock ECU for dealership visits (if you order pretuned ECU).
- Feedbacks
We've been getting bunch of positive and "WOW" responses, but feedbacks are all over the places that can't get all of them at one place.
We've been collecting some of feedbacks that we can find and it's here:
(Please read through the initial thoughts and impression that fellow Genesis
owners have experienced)